TARANTULAS

are large spiders that belong to the family Theraphosidae. They are Arachnids and not insects.

My fascination with these lovely creatures started when I first saw one in Home Alone (movie) and grew deeper when I read this book in National Bookstore back when I was younger (no private reading!).

I acquired my first tarantula in 2007 and plunged right away in the very addicting hobby of keeping them.

I love spiders even though they have established a wicked image when they appeared in movies and started giving people nightmares. Another social misinformation is that they are “poisonous” and can kill humans with just a single bite. They are always misunderstood and stereotyped as frightening inhabitants of the planet we live in.

But as we separate the facts from the misconceptions, I can say that tarantulas are indeed wonderful creation of evolution.

I used to have a lot of tarantulas including some species of scorpions but now I only got a few left in my rack. I’m neither an expert nor a collector but I will be so glad to help and inform people who are  interested in the hobby.

This is a little information page of my own experiences regarding the proper husbandry of the tarantula species that I keep and kept for the past few years. Feel free to comment and share your other thoughts about our beloved Arachnid.

I DON’T RECOMMEND HANDLING TARANTULAS. I JUST DID SOME ON THE DOCILE ONES TO GIVE YOU A POINT OF COMPARISON ON THEIR SIZES AND NOTHING MORE. 

I KNOW ALL THE CONSEQUENCES THAT MIGHT HAPPEN TO ME AND TO THE SPIDERS THEMSELVES.

DON’T TRY THIS AT HOME OR ANYWHERE ELSE IF YOU ARE NEW TO THE HOBBY. OR MAYBE, JUST BE CAREFUL.

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Brachypelma auratum

(Mexican flame knee)

Brachypelma auratum. Sub-adult female.

Usually compared to the classic and famous Brachypelma smithi (Mexican red knee)B. auratum offers a different twist from the former. Its legs are not as “bulky” as the B. smithi’s, but the striking red flames on its knees are the just too perfect you’ll never get tired of looking at them.

B. auratum is fairly docile in nature though nervous at times

It also has a long life span just like the other Brachypelma species which, as they say, can reach 20-25 years or more.

Keeping this species is easy. Give it a tank with drilled holes and dry substrate. Provide a wide and shallow water dish. A weekly misting on the side will be fine. It has an average growth speed but it sometimes go on “hunger strike” and will not eat for weeks.

It is safe to say that in right conditions, you can never go wrong with a Brachypelma auratum.

B. auratum molting here!

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Brachypelma albopilosum

(Honduran curly hair)

Brachypelma albopilosum. Sub-adult female.

A very under-rated tarantula maybe because of its drab coloration and the lack of “interesting” characteristics as many people say.

But how about its long gold and tan curly hair, bronze carapace, and a very greedy eating attitude while being calm in nature? And how about being docile, fast grower, long-living, inexpensive, and hardy at the same time?

In my opinion, B. albopilosum is an awesome and one of the best beginner’s tarantula in the hobby.

I use a semi-damp substrate (with dry parts) for this species. Also, provide a water dish (overflow it). It tends to dig and hide in a burrow when it is still young but as it grows bigger, it will find its refuge inside a given “retreat”.

In my experience, B. albopilosum may stop being a heavy-eater when it reaches 4″  DLS so once or twice a week feeding will be enough.

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Brachypelma boehmei

(Mexican fire leg)

Brachypelma boehmei. Sub-adult female.

B. boehmei is another beautiful tarantula. No doubt about it.

It has an orange carapace and it’s knees have a bright orange-red color that fade down to the feet.

It can be so skittish and a little defensive at times though it is still temperamentally docile. A constant hair flicker and has the most itchy bristles of all the Brachypelma species, in my experience. My hands and arms always itch big time after every tank maintenance.

It can go in a “fasting period” sometimes but most often, it will eat, a lot.

B. boehmei might also live long like the rest of its genus. A good choice for a display-type pet tarantula because proper caring means it can stay longer in your captivity.

A tank with dry substrate and a water dish is enough for keeping it in captivity. Misting the walls of the enclosure once every two weeks is good too.

B. boehmei is definitely a must for every spider collector around. Beauty and attitude in one.

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Brachypelma smithi

(Mexican red knee)

“Trina”. Brachypelma smithi. Sub-adult female.

This is what they call the classic tarantula in the pet trade. It is probably the most popular species because of its docile nature and beautiful orange-red coloration on the “knees”. The adult female B. smithi will reach its decent size of about 6″ DLS and may live between 15 – 40 years.

An enclosure 2-3 times of its size is needed with dry substrate and a water dish (overflow it). Provide a “retreat” and spray the side of the tank with water every week or once every two weeks.

Of course, being a New World terrestrial species, it’s main form of defense is kicking urticating hair. Be careful when cleaning the tank and refilling the water dish.

B. smithi is one of the most suggested first tarantula if you want to start the hobby.

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Chromatopelma cyaneopubescens

(Green bottle blue)

“Blay”. Chromatopelma cyaneopubescens. Sub-adult female.

Having a green carapace, bright orange-red abdomen, and notable blue legs when adult, C. cyaneopubescens is one of the most colorful and most desired Tarantula in the hobby.

Green bottle blue (GBB) tarantulas go into an amazing color transformation as they molt to maturity so it’s a rewarding experience to keep one from sling to adult. They have a somewhat beautiful pattern on their backs when they are younger that will eventually fade.

Not typically aggressive, but they are very nervous and skittish. They also kick urticating hair when threatened (though I’ve never seen mine doing so).

Coming from the scrubs and dry land of Venezuela, keeping GBB in captivity requires a DRY substrate. I repeat, DRY. You can add a water dish but never let the water spill down on the substrate. GBBs hate damp surroundings and it will just make them climb, stressed-out on the walls. It is somehow advisable to add tree barks inside the enclosure because these beautiful tarantulas are also known for webbing the entire cage extensively until they are fully comfortable.

Slings or smaller ones need a bit higher humidity so a weekly misting will do the trick. Adult females may grow up to 6″ DLS and males are usually smaller. They have a huge appetite so you won’t be disappointed during feeding time.

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Cyclosternum fasciatum

(Costa Rican Tiger Rump)

Cyclosternum fasciatum. Sling.

Known for the stunning “tiger” markings on the back, this is one of the beauties of the genus Cyclosternum. A small tarantula (4-5 inches DLS as maximum size), skittish, and has a very huge appetite.

It usually makes a webbing like the famous Chromatopelma cyaneopubescens and a fast grower, in my opinion. It can be speedy especially when taking down a prey but it can be calm (sometimes) when pre-molt.

Cyclosternum fasciatum. Post-molt.

It usually flicks hair even when just opening the enclosure, showing the semi-defensive characteristic. Most often, it just sits hungrily on its webbing and waits for something to eat.

A great addition to anyone’s tarantula collection.

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Eupalaestrus campestratus

(Pink zebra beauty)

“Ampi”. Eupalaestrus campestratus. Sub-adult female.

Eupalaestrus campestrarus is the most docile species of tarantula that I know. You won’t be turned-off by the beautiful pinkish hair around its abdomen and the yellow stripes on the knees.

Did I say docile? Indeed. I can always let Ampi sit on my palm and she won’t move while I stroke her back and even her underside. She will not even let go when it’s time to put her back in her enclosure.

My daughter can even pick her up anytime at will. But calm as she can be, she’s one good hunter when it’s feeding time. There are times that I feed her twice a day but there are also weeks that she just doesn’t want to eat.

I keep her in a tank with a semi-dry substrate and a water dish. I also provided her with a “retreat” that she doesn’t want to use. She just like to bask in the open and sit motionless.

A “pet rock” as you may call a Eupalaestrus campestratus but it is a very great tarantula for beginners (and kids); for display; or for educating people about these lovely creatures.

It is also a very hardy species. With proper care and maintenance, it will surely stay in your captivity for a very long time. Yes,  you can NEVER go wrong with a PZB!

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Grammostola pulchripes

(Chaco golden knee)

Grammostola pulchripes. Juvenile female.

Chaco golden knee is yet another under rated species in the hobby. It is very docile in spite of its maximum size of 9″ DLS.

A “gentle giant” in the tarantula world and easy to take care of which make it a suitable pet for beginners. It has bright yellow bands on the knees that makes it attractive and a good display pet.

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Grammostola rosea

(Chilean rose)

Grammostola rosea. Mature male.

The most common and ideal starter’s tarantula as they say.

Hardy, docile, and long-living (20 years or more). It is known for its different color morphs (grey-brown-copper-light pink-red) which confuse some people that the other color forms are different species.

In the part of Chile, where it came from, is a very dry country so it needs a very arid environment. DRY SUBSTRATE with a water dish is enough. There are also times when “Roses” fast (or what we call “hunger strike”) and will not eat for months which slows its growth.

The ironic thing about this species is that it has the MOST bite report in the entire hobby. Being labeled as “the beginner’s tarantula” usually make people take this species for granted.

Like I said in the first part of this page, HANDLING TARANTULAS IS NOT ADVISABLE. They are NOT domesticated animals and still has the instinct to bite when threatened.

But there’s no doubt, G. rosea is still popular and one of the prettiest tarantula around. I’m sure almost everybody in the hobby has this species.

My male G. rosea was mated and the female produced 200 slings. A little low in numbers but the fact of a successfully breeding it is a good achievement and learning experience. The next challenge is raising a lot of .cm small slings.

One of the little roses.

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Grammostola rosea RCF

(Red Color Form)

Grammostola rosea RCF. Adult female.

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Haplopelma longipes

(Vietnamese tiger rump)

Haplopelma longipes. Adult female.

A very gorgeous Haplopelma species. This is a burrower-type tarantula that needs a damp (not wet) and deep substrate in order to dig its underground retreat.

Very fast and defensive. She likes to wait for something that will pass near her lair and grabs the helpless prey inside for dinner.

The largest possible leg span (for a female) is 5-6″ DLS.

I love this species and I loathe that most from this genus are caught, cooked, sold to local tourists and eaten on skewers as local delicacies in some parts of Asia like Cambodia (Skuon to be specific) , Thailand, and Vietnam where it is widely distributed.

Check this out!

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Heteroscodra maculata

(Togo starburst baboon)

Heteroscodra maculata. Sub-adult female.

… is a very fast-moving and shy old-world arboreal tarantula from Africa. It is not actually “aggressive” nor defensive because it tends to run and hide than to fight back when threatened.

It has a grayish-tan coloration with beautiful black markings on the abdomen and carapace. An adult female might grow from 4″ to 5″ DLS (or slightly bigger). Quite small for an arboreal tarantula but somehow “bulkier” than the rest of its kind.

H. maculata’s bite won’t kill you at all but it is said to be the second most venomous tarantula in the world so take extra caution when having one. This is not recommended for beginners.

Togo starburst baboon tarantula is a very good hunter. Having that speed means that it can dash and make a quick kill even if the helpless prey is on the other side of the enclosure. It can also escape that easily too if you’re careless.

Keep it in a vertical enclosure and add some barks and a log retreat. I repeat, this is an arboreal species.

The Hmac” that I keep apt to settle on the bottom part (the “hide” is below) and fill its lair with a thick webbing. I use dry substrate with a water dish and I spray the side of the tank with water every other week.

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Lasiodora klugi

(Bahia scarlet bird eater)

Lasiodora klugi. Sud-adult female.

In my opinion, it is the most beautiful species in its genus. Lasiodora klugi is another giant tarantula that might grow up to 11″ DLS.  The difference between this tarantula and the famous Lasiodora parahybana is that the former is “bulky” while the latter is “leggy”. It’s like comparing Shaq and Yao Ming.

Defensive. Skittish. Will flick urticating bristles when disturbed or threatened.

One of the reasons why I love Lasiodoras is because of their extremely huge appetite. My L. klugi can eat three adult Blaptica dubia roaches at the same time and will eat even on pre-molt stage.

Basic enclosure set-up needed with a wide and shallow water dish. I use semi-damp substrate for this species with some dry parts plus a tree bark.

I tried handling her but she wasn’t really in the mood for love.

“Threat pose”. Shot taken outside the enclosure and you can see my reflection on the left side.

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Lasiodora striatipes

(Bahia grey bird eater)

Lasiodora striatipes. Sub-adult female.

… can reach the maximum leg span of 7″ DLS that is smaller than the other tarantulas in its genus. But don’t under-estimate this one because even though it is not as popular as L. parahybana and L.klugi, it still carries the Lasiodora attitude!

L. striatipes is an adept hunter; consistent hair flicker; and a fast grower too.

If an A. geniculata eats like a very hungry crocodile, a L. striatipes eats like a very hungry dinosaur! It is extremely voracious and doesn’t want to stop eating even on pre-molt stages. It will not be uncertain to bite your hand or anything that goes inside its tank.

I use slightly damp substrate (with dry parts) with a water dish (overflow it). Of course, spraying water on the side of the enclosure every other week is good too.

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Pelinobius muticus

(King baboon)

Pelinobius muticus. Juvenile female.

… is one of the most desired tarantulas in the hobby though it is not an ideal pet for beginners because of its defensive characteristic. It also doesn’t make a very good display tarantula because it is a burrowing-type, Old World species that spends most of its time inside its “hole”.

Though not always visible, P. muticus is still a beautiful species having a rusty (orange) brown coloration and can grow up to 9″ DLS. I think it has the scariest “threat pose” and it makes a hissing noise when in danger. Cool, eh?

Since it is a burrower, it has to be provided with a tank of very deep and moist substrate. A water dish can be good too. A well-ventilated tank will also help in providing the tarantula the right amount of humidity that it needs. King Baboons are slow grower and females will take about 7-8 years before reaching maturity. The handler needs a lot of patience with this species. But in the end, when it grows to its adult size, the whole wait is worth it.

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Phlogiellus baeri

(Philippine dwarf tarantula)

Phlogiellus baeri. Adult female.

The name speaks for itself. P. baeri is a small species of tarantula found in the Luzon part of the Philippines. Adults grow up to 2″ DLS and typically black-grey-brown in coloration.

It is your burrower type of tarantula so enough moist substrate is needed in order for it to build multiple tunnels as its respective “retreat” and territory.

P. baeri is an Old World tarantula which means it is fast-moving. But unlike the other Old World species, it is not that defensive and can be properly handled. Just give extra care when handling one. Because of its speed, there is a tendency for the spider to escape and get injured.

(as posted here)

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Pterinochilus murinus

(Orange baboon tarantula)

Pterinochilus murinus. Adult female.

P. murinus is quite small and has the maximum DLS of slightly more or less than 5 inches. But never ever underrate this beautiful Old World tarantula. It has a brilliant orange coloration and has a distinctive golden “star burst” pattern on the carapace. But beside being an attractive species, it is very defensive, fast, and voracious.

Just like the other Old World species, it builds a burrow covered with a thick webbing that serves as its “retreat”. I personally provided mine with a “hide” (half of a clay pot) and she’s fine with it. She just waits inside her hole and just the slightest vibration will set her outside to take down anything that moves there. By the way, I use dry substrate and a water dish for this species.

I really love my Orange Bitey Thing. It’s not the size, it’s the bite.

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Selenocosmia samarae

(our very own cave tarantula)

“Inday”. Selenocosmia samarae. Adult female.

This is Inday, my female Selenocosmia samarae. One of the Philippines’ beautiful local tarantulas.

A speedy spider; leggy; and a heavy eater too. I’ve never seen her build webbings nor dig tunnels because like my P. murinus, I provided her with a “hide”.

She is doing fine with a slightly moist substrate, a clay pot (retreat), and a water dish. A pretty common set-up.

Beside eating, she also likes to “escape” and I always find her in the comfort room munching on house cockroaches.

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Stromatopelma calceatum

(Feather leg baboon)

Stromatopelma calceatum. Adult female. This one of the rare chances that she’s out of her “hide”.

S. calceatum is like a larger and leggy H. maculata with feather-like bristles on the legs. It is an Old World arboreal tarantula. It lives in trees or in some hollow barks on the ground.  Fast and very defensive. Definitely not for beginners and for those who want a more “visible” display-type pet. Moderate humidity is needed for this species: not too wet but not dry.

S. calceatum is a very unpredictable tarantula maybe because you can’t see it often as you want since it is always inside the “retreat” full of heavy webbings. Poking its lair might just end up to intense biting or escaping.

WARNING: It is said to be the most venomous tarantula in the world. Be careful when having this species in captivity.

————F A S T  F A C T S————

Arboreal

These are tree-dwelling tarantulas that live entirely in trees or in the hollow barks below. Some examples are the Avicularia and Poecilotheria species. They require delicate care in captivity and need a stable and balance humidity. Thus, they are more challenging to keep.

Terrestrial

These are ground dwelling tarantulas that live in holes and fallen tree barks in the wild. These are probably the easiest type of tarantula to take care of. They don’t require much attention if given the proper conditions that they need.  Some popular species are from the genus Brachypelma and Grammostola.

Burrower

From name itself, these tarantulas dig long silk-lined tunnels and live deep down the ground. King baboon and the species from the genus Haplopelma are good examples.

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New World Tarantulas are from North and South America. They are fairly docile, calm, and are probably the beginner’s tarantula. They don’t bite right away when threatened but they will kick their urticating hair to put-off the attacker.

Old World Tarantulas on the other hand are “fast-moving” spiders and “defensive” in nature . They are mostly found in Asia, Africa, and Europe. Since they lack the urticating bristles, their main form of defense is their nasty bites.

So in general, New World Tarantulas are more gentle than the Old World Tarantulas. But of course, there are exceptions.

Remember, they are more scared than us than we to them.

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“Urticating bristles” are sharp microscopic hair that cover the abdomen of the tarantula. They “kick” it from their backs using their hind legs to launch a cloud of small barbed hair to their potential attacker (or threat) like other animals or even people. The results to humans are skin irritation (some days of itching and redness); uncontrollable sneezing and restricted breathing (when inhaled); and even temporary blindness when it gets in the eyes.

When you unfortunately got in contact with the nasty bristles, you should

(1) Wash the affected area with soap and water or (2) use this:

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THE BITE

The venom of tarantulas cannot kill a person though there is the pain similar to a bee or wasp sting. Allergic reaction (and/or slight fever) might occur to children and elder people. They also do not carry any disease that can be picked-up by us or by other pets.

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MOLTING

… is the process of shedding the tarantula’s old exoskeleton and producing a bigger one. It is their way of growing. Molting occurs depending on how often you feed your spider. The more you feed your tarantula, the faster it molts and grows, though the shorter its lifespan becomes.

Molting usually takes one to several hours before the tarantula gets out of its old skin. The spider makes a web matting, lies on its back (or side) and starts the process.

This is a very sensitive situation for the tarantula. The spider must not be disturbed in order to avoid stress. Remove any live (uneaten) prey items (especially crickets) that might stress or eat / kill the helpless Arachnid.

Proper humidity is needed so you might wanna spray the side of the enclosure with water or overflow the water dish.

The tarantula will not eat for several days or weeks before a molt. It is the pre-molt stage. Some other signs are big, swelling abdomen; bald patches at the back that will eventually darken; inactivity; and dull coloration.

Post-molt

It will also take several days or weeks for the new exoskeleton to harden AFTER molting so do not disturb or feed the spider right away. The tarantula is still weak at this time because of using too much energy during the molt. You will see the tarantula do its “stretching routine” and adjustments for its new legs and body parts after a few days. I usually give a large adult roach to a tarantula two to three weeks after the molt or I will wait for its fangs to turn black again.

Another great thing in a tarantula’s molt is that you can guarantee and determine its gender through its exuvia (cast skin).

Females have flaps which are called spermathecae that are used in storing sperms. Males obviously do not have these.

Here’s an example of a molt sequence.

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WHAT DO I FEED THEM?

Despite of having eight eyes, tarantulas are almost blind and they should be fed live prey so that they can sense it through movements (vibrations). They are adept hunters by nature so they will not heed any dead and unmoving meal.

I feed my pets with these:

1. Blaptica dubia

2. Blatta lateralis

3. Crickets

image taken from the net (I ran out of the actual stocks)

4. Superworms

REMEMBER THAT IF YOU REALLY WANT TO KEEP A TARANTULA FOR PET, YOU MIGHT HAVE TO KEEP THESE AND OTHER INSECT FEEDS IN YOUR HOUSE.

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WHERE DO I KEEP THEM?

Here is my little altar.

I keep my tarantulas in custom-made, all-acrylic enclosures made by Marvin Arcena. Small slings and juveniles are kept in small delicups.

My rack’s legs are sunk in little containers filled with water (mixed with dish-washing liquid) to avoid ant attacks. I also put oil in the lower sides in case some ants manage to pass the first defense.

Note: Stagnant water alone might invite mosquitoes to breed there.

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IS THAT SOIL?

I use this as the only substrate for my pets.

The ever-trusted Coco Peat Brick from Ace Hardware!

Tarantulas (and other inverts like scorpions) need an appropriate substrate in their tanks. Coco peat (coco dust) has the ability to hold moisture for a very long time that somehow helps to maintain the right amount of humidity a specific tarantula needs.

I also provide each one of them a wide and shallow water dish because tarantulas do drink. If the water dish is too high, I put some rocks or pebbles inside so that the spider won’t drown.

Clay pots and driftwood as hides are not that essential but if you want to really replicate their natural environment, add some in their enclosures. It will also make them calm because tarantulas prefer to stay in dark places since they are nocturnal creatures (active at night only). Do not put them in a place where there is direct sunlight.

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ACCESSORIES

1.) 10″ Stainless Forceps for catching feeds and for removing uneaten food and frass (like the one in the picture below).

2.) Some sticks for poking.

3.) Water sprayer for refilling the water dishes and for, err, spraying the walls of the enclosures for controlling humidity.

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“WHY TARANTULAS?”

pros:

1. You don’t need to walk a tarantula in the morning and at night.

2. No need to give it a bath. NEVER.

3. Tarantulas don’t shit on the floor and to anywhere else but inside their enclosure. You won’t even notice that they shit.

4. They don’t make loud noises. They don’t smell.

5. It’s OK NOT to feed your tarantula up to a month. Just leave them with a source of water.

6. Tarantulas don’t have lice and ticks though they are prone to mites. But mites are just fine in controlled population.

7. You don’t have to give them vitamins nor take them to the Vet.

8. Tarantulas don’t take up much space in your house. Good pet suggestion for yuppies, busy individuals, and for those who have a small residence like me.

9. Very low maintenance. You don’t have to clean their tanks regularly.

10. Fulfilling.

cons: (just to be fair)

1. ADDICTING. Once started, you will then start dreaming of having all the species available around which will lead you to impulse buying.

2. Impulse buying will surely minimize the “life span” of your pay check.

3. Keeping tarantulas means keeping (breeding) different kinds of insects like crickets (males’ chirps are irritating when place inside the house); roaches (some roaches really stink like B. Lateralis); and worms (which will make your mother and sister scream) because it’s not practical spending a lot of money to buy feeders every week, or worst, everyday.

4. Tarantulas won’t love you back. They won’t cuddle you nor play fetch with you.

5. You can’t train your T’s to do tricks like “sit”, “play dead”, or “kill him”.

6. Won’t guard your house not even your room.

7. You will unconsciously be an instant “basurero” when you have a lot of T’s in your captivity. You will collect gravy dishes; tissue rolls; deli cups; tree barks; branches; broken terra cotta; leaves; rocks; pebbles; even plastic spoons because there will always be a possible use for those junk. Yes, there will always be.

8. You wouldn’t allow anyone spray insecticides and air fresheners near your room. Good luck to mosquitoes and house roaches.

9. Your girlfriend, wife, or any special partner will be jealous to your inverts weeks after your first purchase.

10. People will avoid you because they’ll think you’re a weirdo.

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See More Tarantulas here and here.

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INTERESTING LINKS

A Key to the Pronunciation and Meaning of Scientific Names of Popular Species

Tarantula Common Names

Tarantula Sexing

Spermathecae Gallery

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270 responses to “TARANTULAS

  1. ganda ng mga T’a mo.. sir ask ko lang..san ka bumibili ng Inverts acrylic enclosure mo?? ang gaganda kasi at malinis tingnan.. gamit ko kasi mga cricket keeper at aquarium lang..sana reply ka.. thanks!

  2. thanks sir.

    all of my acrylic enclosures are made by my friend Marvin “krib” Arcena.

    if you are interested you can reach him through this number:

    0919 550 82 93

    you might as well join the Philippine Tarantula and Scorpion Society. kindly click the PTSS logo above.

    thanks.

  3. i am a 13 yr old boy liven in davso.. and i kmow this sound weird but we have the same tarantulas and the same soil and tools and of course i feed my ts dubias or roaches..like your blog this really can help other people to understand them can help fellow hobbist to pursue more..up 4 this!

  4. thanks sir. i think you are the youngest tarantula hobbyist that i met. keep up the wonderful and addicting hobby of inverts keeping. salamat.

  5. Good evening sir. Kaka-start ko lang din sa pag-alaga ng inverts and it really is addicting. Imbes na gumawa ng thesis sa school, tumitingin ako ng mga forums related sa kanila. Ubos na din ang pera ko, haha.

    Tanong ko lang po, matagal ba bago mag-approve ng membership sa PTSS forum? Last month pa ata ako nag-apply, hinde pa ako approved. :(

  6. @ emmanuel espejo – thanks sir.

    you will be approved by a director na kakilala mo or kung may nagrefer sa iyo na PTSS member.

    medyo inaayos pa yung organization ngayon. malay mo baka maging free for all na yung site. hehe.

    kung wala nag-aapprove sa iyo PM mo sa akin info about you at yung ginamit mong username nung nagsign-up ka.

    thanks.

  7. Aahhhhh ganun pala yun, actually, twice na ako nag-sign up eh, kala ko kasi nagka-problema sa una kong pag-register. espejoemmanuel yung username ko dyan.

    Nakakainis din, pati sa PPF, for approval pa rin hanggang ngayon yung application ko, eh kapag bumibili kg ng T’s usually, no PPF username no reply yung mga tao, hehe.

    Mahaba haba yung listahan ko nang gusto kong bilhin ng T’s, sayang lang at di na muna natuloy yung isang raket ko.

  8. Pingback: Genic’s New Tank « boyetus

  9. sir gsto ko mag try mag alaga ng T’s kht 1inch lng aq mag simula mrn kba alam na ok na seller , reply ka sna \m/

  10. sir beginner pa po ako at is alng po ung T ko G.rosea po ito sling naging interested po ako sa pag alaga d2 ksi only at bigay po ito ng best friend ko 25c ung size pahingi nmn ako ng tips kung pano alagaan to plssss and btw la pa ako sprayer at ugn ibang gmit mo pero gngwa ko ang lht binabas ako lng ugn substrate ok lgn po ab ito pls reply thnx

  11. @ aizen – try mo sa philippinepetfinder.com. exotic and small animals classfied ads forum. just read the forums first and observe para malaman mo yung mga reputable sellers and people.

  12. @ Joseph Que – Grammostola rosea fast caresheet: DRY substrate. Kung sling pa lang yan, once a week misting sa gilid ng enclosure (or kung sa delicup nakalagay). Remove all the uneaten food. Hardy naman ang mga Roses so you can never go wrong with it. Minsan may “hunger strike” or fasting yan ha at hindi kakain ng matagal. Normal lang yun kaya huwag kang mabahala. Pag-premolt halata naman dahil nangingitim yung abdomen. Keep the side of the enclosure misted para sigurado at hindi ma-badmolt. At higit sa lahat, do your search sa Internet. Marami kang mababasang interesting.

  13. hi im a proud owner of a Chilean Rose taranchula. ive been woried about my taranchula because of his current hunger strike. the info about the molting helped alot because i wasnt really sure what to do when it happened. ive only had him for 7 months and im already attached to him so i want to do everything i can to make it easy for him. i handle him all the time and hes pretty mellow and sits on my shoulder. i feed him small crickets and meal worms but i dont know where to get other insects because the pet stores around me dont have them.

  14. @ Allison – Thank you for reading my post. Grammostola rosea is a very hardy tarantula. You can never go wrong with it. You really don’t have to worry about its current fasting because it’s pretty normal for that species. With proper care, you will enjoy the company of your Chilean rose for a very long time. And yes, you should be proud to have one. It’s a very pretty tarantula.

  15. pahabol lang sir.. what’s the fully grown size of a female samar cave tarantula? and the average lifespan of it. i just want to try kung maganda sila alagaan… ^^ walo palang kasi T ko… OBT, M. red rump, C. tiger rump, Albo, chaco gknee, smithi, t. chevron, g. rosea… gusto din magkaroon ng lokal specie… and if u know some na nagbebenta pls. give me some info thankz….

  16. @ Rex – Honestly, I’m not quite sure kung ilang species ang meron dito sa Pilipinas. Nandiyan ang Selenocosmia sp.; Phlogielus sp.; at Selenobrachys sp. Marami pang unidentified like nung December may nabalitaan ako na ang mga unang lumabas na P. baeri dito ay hindi pala P.baeri. Dahil ang P.baeri na totoo ay galing sa Bataan, according to Rick West (something like that).

    Ang “Samar Cave Tarantula” ay hindi official na common name kung S.samarae ang tinutukoy mo. Ang aking estimated fully grown size nito ay 4-5″ DLS (diagonal leg span). Ang lifespan ay hindi ko rin masabi dahil ang S.samarae ko ay WC (wild caught) lang at wala akong idea kung gaano na siya katagal nabuhay bago ko pa makuha.

    Better ask the experts. Pwede kang mag-register sa Philippine Tarantula and Scorpion Society. Click the logo above. OR check out
    PhilippinePetFinder.com. Madami kang makikitang for sale dun at mga information na hinahanap mo.

  17. Ganun ba sir.. Thankz for the info…. kung sa bagay sa Bicol may mga Dwarf tarantula din akong nakikita sa gubat2x…. tingin ko hindi din P.baeri un kasi medyo Brown… i agree maraming specie ng Tarantula dito sa atin kaso hindi ganun ka ganganda… any way salamat sa advise.. Thankz ^^

  18. question ko lng po kung meron ka po kakilala na nagbebenta ng brachypelma smithi, spiderling lang po, ang cool kasi tignan tapos artista pa sa indiana jones, pati yata sa street fighter… anyway un nga po, any suggestions? medyo nkakatakot po kasi ung ibang meet-ups eh

  19. @Rex – You are welcome.

    @ Dj – Mag-search ka lang sa iba’t ibang sites at makakakita ka din. Ang naalala kong reputable na nagbebenta ng B.smithi slings na kakilala ko personally ay sina Jorps at si Arachboy (usernames nila yan ha).

    Saka isipin mo munang mabuti kung gusto mo talagang mag-alaga ng tarantula. Baka kasi after ilang linggo or buwan ay magsawa ka na. Sayang naman. Huwag ka sanang padadala kung “astig” lang tignan or something. Tarantulas are still “pets” once nasa captivity mo na. Be responsible. Yun lang. Just my two cents. Peace and thank you for reading.

  20. oh my apologies, owner ako ng isang honduran curly hair na niregalo sakin, actually matagal ko na gusto mag alaga kaso overpriced naman ung nasa tiendesitas at wild pa, recently ko lang nalaman na may nagbebenta pala ng slings, don’t worry d naman dahil sinabi ko na “astig” un lang ung dahilan, doing my best para palakihin ang curly hair ko, shall do the same para sa smithi.

    anyway hanapin ko ung mga usernames na sinabi mo, I apologize sa misunderstanding na nabigay ko sayo, promise aalagaan ko talaga ng mabuti, peace din and thank you sa info

  21. @ Dj – No sire it’s not want I meant. My apologies too, I’m not trying to be rude or something. Sorry for the misunderstanding. Peace.

    Anyway, I think it’s NOT a good thing to buy tarantulas at Tiendesitas for a lot of reasons. Try browsing philippinepetfinder.com (down yata ito ngayon, under maintenance) or pep9.nstars.org. Diyan marami kang makikitang for sale na inverts. Try searching the usernames (they are good sellers and friends) that I gave you. I could have given you their numbers but something went wrong with my handset so I lost all my contacts.

    B.albopilosum (curly hair) is a great tarantula. Very under rated here in our country but it’s a very good choice for your first invert. Goodluck to your B.smithi sling search and welcome to the very addicting hobby of tarantula keeping. See you at the forums.

  22. may question ako, ginamit ko kasi na substrate para sa B.Albopilosum ko ay potting soil, yes manure and such, ngayon nag aalala ako kasi may nakikita ako na small group ng langgam, twice na ngyayari to at ayaw ko na istorbohin yung lugar ni Adelheid, anung possible options ko?

  23. DJ: pasingit.. baka may mga left over ng feeders kaya nilalangam. nangyari na sakin one time ung Orange baboon ko pinakyaw ng langam buti naagapan ko naligtas ko pa… pinutol ko ung dalwang (2) paa na may mga kagat baka mamatay sa venom ng langam… tumubo nmn after molt hehehe.. ^^ ngayun todo ingat.. pinapalit palitan ko pag mabaho na ung substrate nea na peatmoss + Mountain soil aus na…

    ganun din sa mga tarantula ko at madagascar roach..

  24. DJ: medyo makunat/mabagal ang growth ng Smithi peo exciting evry molt.. ang ganda ng mga legz, pambihira ^^

    pero wala paring tatalo sa Growth ng Rosea… Super kunat/tagal…
    fasting type kasi…

    un lang thnkz… ^^

  25. Boyetus: Sir may kilala ka bang nagbebenta ng Samare or philipinus? hirap kasi maghanap eh. if meron pls. refer mo ko, salamat. buy ako kahit isa lang sa dalawa….

  26. @ Dj – I think the safest substrate to use is the Cocogreen (Cocopeat) found in Ace Hardware and the likes. Medyo madumi yung potting soil e. Saka ilagay mo na lang sa lugar na di nilalanggam yung enclosures mo para di magkaroon ng ant attacks. Si Arachboy nagbebenta rin ng mga local species of tarantula.

    Congratulations to your new addiction, ay additions pala. Hehe.

  27. sir T-T sorry epal ulit ako sa blog mo, d ko kasi alam kung ano username mo sa forum eh, gumawa na nga pala ako sa pep9 my username is hell213, mrami ako questions at ayaw ko punuin ung blog mo nito…

    and may new addiction/addition (haha) ako na pulchripes, no show kasi ung bibilan ko sana ng smithi

    PM mo na lang po ako sa pep9 baka mapuno ng comments ko d2 sa blog mo eh and thanks sa advice… to ace hardware!

  28. Boyetus: OMG!!!! my OBT has a White tick.. how can i remove those parasites from hell? its in the fangs and leg joints of my OBT ,bigla ko lang napansin… pag nagmolt ba xa matatanggal ba ung mga un sir??? what should i do if it doest? thankz.. ^^

  29. @ Dj – boyetus din ang username ko sa lahat ng site na pinupuntahan ko. Hindi na ako masyadong active sa mga site na yun. Sa PEP9 wala pa akong post. Sige message mo lang ako dun or post ka na lang ng topic para mas maraming makatulong sa iyo. Salamat.

    @ Rex – Tick o Mites? If you can take a picture of it then do it and post it in PPF or PEP9 para maagapan. Wala akong idea kung ano yung sinasabi mo e. Though yes, pag-nagmolt yang P.murinus mo, sasama sa exuvium yung kung ano mang nakakapit sa kanya.

  30. @ brownpride – Bilad mo sa araw or just leave it in an open container for a week. Minsan talaga may mga items na amoy chemical. The smell won’t harm your tarantulas. It will just irritate the handler (you). Thank you for reading.

  31. may nabasa ako tungkol sa cocopeat sa hardware yung amoy chemical hindi daw pwede sa Ts yun, parang suicide lang daw.
    pero pro ka e, so i trust you.
    kakabili lang cocopeat bricks sa hardware.

  32. @ troublemaker – I’m not a pro, sire. I’m just a private and passionate tarantula hobbyist. I’m not even a “collector”.

    Anyway, all the information written here are from my own experiences since 2007. I am aware that some people say that the ones (CocoGreen) with chemical-like smell are not good for our beloved inverts.

    My A.geniculata has been inside her enclosure with that smelly order of CocoGreen for more than a year (without changing the substrate) and she is still fine.

    Sa tingin ko mga B.O. (bad orders) lang yung mga may amoy. Kasi most ng nabibili ko ay normal naman. May mga chances lang na may mabibili kang may `di kanais-nais na amoy.

    Sabi din kasi sa label ng CocoGreen na “all-natural” and product nila kaya naniniwala naman ako.

    I’m just here to give information or help, in the most possible way. If you think it is risky to use that product, it’s still your choice.

    Thanks for reading.

  33. Pareho lang yung OK sire. CocoGreen yung brand ng cocopeat na ginagamit as substrate. Peat moss kasi usually pampaganda lang ng itsura ng enclosure para may green at mukhang natural tignan. Naghohold din ng konting moisture pampadagdag ng humidity.

  34. pare magkano un cocopeat brick? my mexican fire leg aq, antagal nya lumake o 2maba kht antakaw nya! en panay pagpag ng balahibo! pare ano2 pb mga tips mo pra mgtagal skn tarantula q?

    • @ Wilson – CocoGreen cocopeat brick in Ace Hardware is less than 40PHP. Nakalimutan ko na yung exact price pero wala pang 50PHP yun. Meron din sa Cartimar naka-plastic bag around 20PHP. or sa Cubao, sa garden section sa tapat ng Farmer’s Market. May mga nagtitinda ng flowers, mayroon ka ring mabibili dun.

      Yung B.boehmei or Mexican fire leg minsan matagal or mabilis lumaki or tumaba depende na rin sa pagpapakain mo or sa environment niya kung comfortable siya. Ok lang magpakain lagi at hayaan mo na lang siya, wag mo na lang laging istorbuhin siguro. Siguraduhin mong di siya nai-stress. Sabi mo kasi laging “nagpapagpag” ng balahibo. Baka lagi mong ginagalaw.

      Dry substrate with a waterdish na laging may laman. I-overflow mo pag naglalagay ka ng tubig.

      Sana nakatulong.

  35. may cave tarantula po ako…I’m so sacred to the point I don’t know how to feed it and even how to give it a water. My tito Dad caught it from Bicol in our backyard and I guess mga 3 inches long yung leg nya.. I got color brown pa po pero from cocnut naman sya..Dunno what kind of tarantula is it. I got 6 tiny scorpions din from coconut tree.

    • @ Aiah – if you have time, try taking pictures of your wild caught tarantulas and scorpions and post it sa mga site like PPF or PEP or search mo yung Viva Adikularia group sa Facebook para ma-identify kung anong species iyan at mabigyan ka ng mga experts ng tamang paraan para alagaan yan. Iba-iba kasi ang proper care sa bawat species so we should identify first the ones that you have.

  36. sir mahirap bang alagaan ung mexican fireleg? now lang kc aq mg-aalaga ng tarantula at buy p lng aq ng 2cm…..

    • @ Rami Arevalo – di naman mahirap mag-alaga ng Mexican fireleg. Dry substrate with waterdish will be fine.

  37. Fireleg ba? mdyo mabagal ang growth pero exiting nmn…

    Luk mo dito…

    http://www.care-sheet.com/index/Brachypelma

    long live yan like chilean rose mga 3 to 4 years to mature …

    wala lang. . .

    ang mahal ng Philippine orange san kaya may mura… Local specie n nga lang ang mahal pa… sir BOYETUS kung may alam kayo nagbebenta ng mura inform me nlang thnkz… mhirap maghanap sa PPF at Sulit.ph thnkzzz….

    • @ Eighven – Hintayin mo lang sa mga site na lagi mong pinupuntahan at may maga-out din nun. Usually wild caught yung mga nabibili kaya dapat pag-aralan muna kung anong conditions ang tama para sa species na yun para di madaling mamatay.

  38. sir ano po b dpat n tarantula ang alagaan q muna at ung mbilis lumaki po at pno po un alagaan? cge n po sir bigyan nyo aq ng tips po, gus2 ko kc mg-alaga eh….

    • @ Rami Arevalo – try mo muna magresearch ng mga species na gusto mo talaga para mas maaappreciate mo. Pero in my personal opinion, magandang mag-start sa genus Brachypelma at Avicularia. Sige pag meron ka ng hawak na species sabihin mo na lang dito, I’ll try my very best to help you with your pet.

  39. Great information! Do u have a newsletter? Also, we just moved our tarantula, Smarty, to it’s new aquarium. I posted it on FB. Would u mind looking @ it & tell me what we r doing wrong, or right, & what u would recommend? Thank u so much! Add me, Lethi Martinez Johnson [sorry, don't remember site address :( ]

  40. sir I’m back, its been a while and you’re right, tarantulas are a very addicting hobby, thanks to you naalagaan ko po ng mabuti ung first tarantula ko, thank you very much :)

    I now currently own 10 tarantulas and 1 scorpion, and I don’t believe it will stop there, you were also right about the paycheck lifespan part :)

    again thank you for those advices and more power to you :)

  41. Sir nk bili aq ng albo 3inch xa, ok lng b qng mga 1inch ung taas ng nklgay n cocopeat at mga 5 doble nman ung laki ng la2gyan nya, ok lng po b un? Sir sn bigyan nyo q ng tips pano alagaan, at s su2nod n bi2lin q ay emilia po…

  42. Sir nk bili aq ng albo 3inch xa, ok lng b qng mga 1inch ung taas ng nklgay n cocopeat at mga 5 doble nman ung laki ng la2gyan nya, ok lng po b un? Sir sn bigyan nyo q ng tips pano alagaan, at s su2nod n bi2lin q ay emilia po…

  43. @ Rami Arevalo

    OK lang na 1 inch ang taas ng substrate. Gawin mong double the size of the tarantula yung height ng enclosure. Huwag masyadong mataas kasi baka umakyat ang pet mo at mahulog.

    B.emilia caresheet parang sa rest of the Brachypelmas lang.

    • Sir pg-pinapakain q ng worm lumulusot ung worm lng pumupunta s ilalim, dpat po b n pu2lin ung ulo ng worm? At pg-nkbili aq ng smithi mg-ask ulit aq about dun s smithi nman, at pg-nkbili nq ng smithi sunod q nman chaco golden knee po… Bk bukas kc m2loy ung deal nmin s smithi

  44. @ Rami Arevalo

    Squeeze mo na lang yung ulo ng worm using your forceps or tweezers.

    Check mo yung post ko sa taas about Brachypelma auratum, ganun din naman ang caresheet ng B. smithi. May post din ako about G. pulchripes (Chaco golden knee). Pero kung may tanong ka pa na wala dito, sige I’ll try to answer it.

    Goodluck to your upcoming (new) pets.

  45. sir nk bili nq ng smithi 2.5 inch xa at ung tiyan nya makintab at konti nlng ung hair nya sbi nya skin nung pinag-bilan q mg-mo2lt n dw un, tama po b? at nilipat qxa ng bagong enclo nya kc mejo malaki pr sknya ung enclo nya, ilang araw b mg-molt ung smithi?

  46. @ Rami

    Malapit na `yang mag-molt. Hindi ko kasi nasubaybayan `yan since sa iyo yan at kakabili mo lang, pero more or less than a week mag-momolt na yan.

    Mist (spray with water) mo yung isang side ng enclosure at maglagay ka ng waterdish. Huwag mo ng istorbohin. Avoid the things that can stress it before or while molting. Iwasan mo ng buhatin ang enclosure muna at iwasan mo ring ma-alog yung pinapatungan niya.

  47. ok sir TY, at pwede po b n 2 times a wik aq mg-mist ng water po o araw2X po? TY, sir nkk-adik pl tlg mg-alaga………

  48. @ Rami

    Brachypelma smithi – dry substrate. i-overflow mo lang yung waterdish. once a week misting or once every two weeks. mga tatlong spray lang sa gilid ng enclosure. nag-molt na ba yung B.smithi mo?

  49. ndi p sir eh, sn e2ng wik n2 mg-molt nxa xcited aq sir at la2ki nxa…. Mg-msg nlng aq ulit pg-nag molt nxa mrming salamat ulit sir

  50. sir my tnong ulit aq, bkit po ndi kumakain ung albo q 2wiks nxa n skin ndi prin xa kumakain, tama po b ung mga nbbsa q pg-nilipat q ng la2gyan ndi kakain tama po b?

  51. @ Rami –

    Yep. Kapag nilipat ng enclosure ay maninibago pa yun. Give her time na masanay sa kanyang bagong tirahan. Or baka naman premolt.

  52. Sir ng-molt n po ung smithi q, 2 wiks po db bago qxa pakainin nabasa q d2 po s website nyo po at sir pg-ppkainin qn dun nlng aq mg-mimist po ng enclo nya po ok lng po b un

  53. @ Rami –

    Style ko lang yung after two weeks magpapakain after ng molt. Pwede na siguro yan ng 1 week. Hindi mo naman din kailangang mag-mist lagi. Once a week will do. Mga tatlong wisik.

  54. @Anonymous

    Medyo mas mataas ang “venom potency” ng Selenocosmia samarae kaysa sa ibang tarantulas pero hindi pa rin enough para mapahamak tayo ng todo. Thank you for reminding me.

  55. @ jomel

    Hintayin mong mag-molt at tignan mo yung exuvium (cast skin). Kung may flap, female. HINDI sila pwedeng magkasama. Saan mo ba nabili at gaano na kalaki?

  56. Sir, ng bebenta rin po ba kayo? As a beginner, would you suggest a Brazilian giant white knee as my first tarantula?

    Tnx!

  57. @Jonas -

    Dati kung may sobrang species binebenta ko or tine-trade.

    I don’t usually suggest kung anong bibilin nino man, kasi nasa tao yan kung anong gusto niya talaga. Kung may isa-suggest man ako, malamang genus Brachypelma at Grammostola. Pero hindi naman masamang first tarantula ang Giant white knee (Acanthoscurria geniculata). Ingat lang kasi MATAKAW yun at baka pagkamalang Superworm ang daliri mo `pag medyo lumapit sa kanya.

    Good choice din, personally. `Yan pinakapaborito kong species ko. Good luck sire.

  58. Tnx Sir sa suggestion nyo. Kita ko kasi un Giant white knee, ang ganda. eh! hehehe… Sir, in your experience. When would be the best time na ilagay na ang mga tarantula s all-acrylic enclosures and baka my contact pa kayo ky Marvin Arcena para maka bili rin ako.

    Tnx!

  59. @Jonas -

    Actually sire, you can keep tarantulas in any enclosure of your choice. Acrylic enclosure, glass tank, shoe box etc. Nagre-rehouse lang ako `pag na-outgrow na ng T yung enclosure niya. Yung `pag sumikip na dahil lumaki na yung T.

    Kaya lang ako nag-acrylic enclosure kasi magandang pang-display. Pwede rin namang glass tank. Or shoe box basta sakto lang sa ilalagay mo. Hindi masikip. Hindi rin masyadong malawak na maliligaw na yung nakalagay.

    Ok na yung size (ng enclosure) na doble ng leg span ng tarantula.

    Kung mayroon nga lang akong makikitang 12″L x 8″W x 6″H na shoe box or plastic delicup ok na sa akin yun. Mura pa. Hehe.

    But it’s still up to you.

    Anyway here’s the number if you want a customized acrylic enclosure. Isipin mo muna yung dimensions na gusto mo tapos saka mo ipagawa sa kanya.

    Marvin: 09195508293.

  60. Tnx Sir! sana hindi mahirap alagaan eto mga T’s. Sana tulad lng ng monitor lizard pati ng green iguana na papaka inin mo lng. hehehe

  61. Sir, question lang? For a 2.5cm na white knee, in your experience po kelan ko po sya ililipat ng enclosure? nasa deli cup lng po sya ngyn. eh

  62. @ Jonas

    Ilipat mo `pag masikip na sa kanya yung enclosure niya. Pwede mong pakainin yung White Knee mo ng kahit anong medyo maliit sa kanya like mealworms, crickets, and roaches.

  63. @ Anonymous -

    ????

    Spray the side of the enclosure with water and leave it alone. Don’t shake or move it and don’t be scared.

    • why all my pet always hide when i wan c them?
      i din shake them but something when i bring them out i scared them?
      or cz of the species?(tiger rump, OBT and asia scorpion)

      • @Kang

        Just leave them alone. Tarantulas and scorpions are “for your eyes only” pets. They are more comfortable when inside their hides.

  64. @ Mhere

    Sorry but I don’t sell T’s anymore.

    @ Kang

    I haven’t had any experience on T. violaceus and I never saw the P. ornata that I kept before run because she was always inside her hide. The OBT is really fast though.

  65. Sir, ask ko lang kung saan nyo nabili un Pelinobius muticus (King Baboon)? Ng hahanap po ako ng sling nyan, wala ako makita satin. eh! na addict na po ako mg alaga ng T’s din.. :-) meron na po ako 5 species but all of them are slings and the biggest pa lang po is almost a 2 inch Rosea. gusto ko po kasi idag-dag ang Pelinobius muticus (King Baboon).

    Tnx!

  66. Sir, follow-up question naman po sa Brachypelma boehmei (Mexican fire leg). My sling po ako neto mga 2.5cm na po. ng molt sya last Nov. 15, 2011 but until now hindi pa po say ulit nag molt. normal lang po ba un?

  67. @ Jonas

    Kung wala ka namang ginagawang mali talaga, ok lang yun. Yung 3 inch B. boehmei do dati lampas one year bago nagmolt uli.

  68. sinusunod ko lang un care sheet sir. hehehe and medyo na-power feed ko sila. sana hindi masama un sa mga slings.

  69. @ Jonas

    Ok lang yun, kusa naman silang titigil kumain `pag ayaw na nila. Ako rin powerfeed from sling hanggang 3 inches or hanggang sa ma-gender ko na. Then once a week feeding na or once every two weeks.

  70. @ Jonas

    You’re welcome. Basta may maii-share ako tungkol sa tarantulas na alam, ipopost ko naman. Salamat din sa pagbasa ng blog ko.

  71. I like your site I have a thew questions to ask you, I’m new to this hobby (tarantulas) can you see the flaps of spermathecae on the out side under the. Abdomen of the tarantula?

  72. Hi. I recently bought a baby orange baboon. I went to feed it today and its escaped. No idea how or when. Will it be able to live and grow in my house or Will larger house spiders attack and kill it? I dont want one of those roaming around. If it will survive, how can I either track it down or kill it?
    Thanks

  73. @ Anonynous

    I had an adult female S. samarae once and she was about a little bit more than 5″ (diagonal leg span). I didn’t had her that long too so my OWN estimation for the lifespan is more or less than 10 years.

    Sorry there are still not a lot of information about this species.

    Hope this helped.

  74. @ Anonymous

    If you want to feed slings with worms, try chopped mealworms. Superworms are too big for your slings. If you can buy pinheads or nymphs of roaches, much better.

  75. @ Jane

    I think it has a lesser chance of survival inside your house. It might die of dehydration or (you’re right) it might become a prey for larger insects.

    And please don’t kill it when you see it.

  76. Sir, hingi naman po ako ng tips sa pag pakain ng slnigs. sinusubukan ko na po kasi sila ngyn i-mix diet ng lats and dubia pero problema ko po un dubia kasi ng huhukay. ano po b magandang gawin pag i-papakain ko nman is dubia?

  77. sir, ano po ang papa kainin ko po sa p baeri tarantula ko po kac po kapag criket po ang papakainnin ko po yung tarabtula ko po yung tatakbo ano po ba yung i papakain ko sa p baeri ko po? tulong naman po sir…..

  78. @ Anonymous

    Thank you sire.

    Yung mga kaalaman ko about tarantulas nakuha ko lang sa mga nabasa at naexperience ko.. at higit sa lahat, sa mga natutunan ko sa mga kaibigan at nakilalang mga master ng pag-aalaga ng tarantula dito sa Pilipinas.

    Search ka lang sa Internet ng mga species ng small tarantulas, maraming information dun.

    About your P. baeri, hayaan mo munang maging stable siya sa enclosure niya which means, bigyan mo siya ng malalim na substrate at hayaan mo munang makagawa siya ng kanyang mga tunnels. Kapag ok na ok na siya, saka mo siya pakainin. Try mo munang mas maliit sa kanya yung prey.

  79. tnx sir! additional lang. mga nabasa ko kasi is ang T’s, kumukuha sila ng liquid sa mga pagkain nila but langan parin maglagay ng waterdish. sa inyong experience, mga anong size ba advisable mag lagay nun?

  80. @ Jonas

    Ako kasi kapag 2″ na at na-transfer ko na sa mas malaking enclosure, nilalagyan ko na ng waterdish. Yung hindi masyadong malaki na pwedeng malunod yung T na nakatira.

  81. hello, i have a Cyclosternum fasciatum after my previous G.Rosea died, this guys is way more nervous, im not sure about the temperature, i read somewhere 28°C and humidity, currently its a sling, measuring not more than … not even sure how to measure it, if included the legs or just carapage; lets say with legs it is nearly 5cm more or less. I would also ask how often to feed this sling, initially i though once a month but it looks hungry every 3-4 days. It just molted, while molting he buried for nearly a full month refusing food.

  82. @elnath78

    - I’m not quite sure about the temperature and humidity thing because it’s not a problem here in the Philippines for our tarantulas.

    - There are a lot of ways to measure a tarantula like:

    DLS (Diagonal Leg Span) – tip of the right front leg to the tip of the left back leg or vice versa

    LS (Leg Span) – tip of the right front leg to the tip of the right back leg or the other way around

    BS (Body Size) – self-explanatory

    - You can feed your C. fasciatum whenever you want. You can feed it once or twice a day if you want it to grow faster. And yes, it will refuse food some weeks before molting (premolt stage) and about two weeks after molting (postmolt stage).

    - Yes it is more nervous than a G. rosea and making a burrow is pretty much common on slings.

  83. thank you, what is your local humidity and temperature during day? Currently i have it stored in a 45cm glass cube (exo terra) with a 20cm square heat mat in a corner. I see it likes to stay there nearly the whole day where it build some web, it doesnt borrows here rather prefer to go on another corner near the water dish and moss. Initially i though to feed it once a month like i did on my G.Rosea but thinking of it the G.Rosea was an adult female so this baby sling will eath more often, maybe once a week? im not sure if i need to mist or just leave natural humidity do its job. Respect the previous size when i biught it at exhibit it grown nearly twice as much. It is a little too skittish to be measured corerctly but DLS should be something above 5cm form what i read it should grow double of that.

  84. The average temperature here in Metro Manila is from 27 to 32 (Celcius) and the humidity has an average of 65%.

    Yes, C. fasciatum do make a webbing around the enclosure so it will feel secure. You can feed it once or twice a week or every day or every other day depending on how fast you want it to grow. They are heavy eaters so don’t worry.

    You can also do a weekly misting. Three (3) sprays of water of the side of the enclosure. They usually grow around 4.5 inches DLS.

  85. hello,

    thank you for all these precious informations, currently ive set a heat mat with thermostat set to 28°C in this season home heat is around 20° probably little more inside the glass terrarium. I think i need an hygrometer to measure the humidity or perhaps read meteo news.

    Currently im not yet misting, i though that chlorine contained in the water might harm the spider, perhaps i should use bottled water instead. I noticed it started to make tunnels, it seems to like to dig a lot; next time ill place a substrate double the current one.

    As substrate im using coco fiber and wood bark, along with some naturall moss from exo terra to reproduce a more life-like environment. Ive placed a very nice cave covered in moss but it is ignoring it :( so its just decorative so far.

    The tunnel(s) entrance is next the water dish, probably it is really looking for some more humidity; ive noticed it touching the water wit front legs, probably it didnt molt completly on a few segments of the legs.

    My main concerns about feeding was from my past experience with that adult femare G.Rosea which was refusing food for most of the time except once a month. Will the feeding rate decrease for this spider too once grown?

  86. @ elnath78

    Not exactly. Roses always undergo on what we call “hunger strike”. They “fast” and won’t eat for a long period of time. Especially the adult ones.

    C. fasciatum’s appetite is different from G. rosea.

  87. hello guys, i think i can answe @ Rian for this. You can find in commerce a special dust that turns your water dish into a drinkable slush, the dust is composed of organic and natural seaweed, this prevents little slings from drowning while letting them drink from a water dish.

  88. sorry for anonymous, i forgot to input the details :S

    I have a different question; im trying to breed a crickets colony to keep up the food storage for my spider (it is not conveninent to visit the shop every 3/4 days as it will cost too much in fuel and time) so ive prepared a faunarium with an assorted variety of males and females; ive provided food, water and repair along with a soil pot to let them drop the eggs. I keep the pot wet by misting every day and the whole faunarium is partially above an heat mat set at 28°C i can see little white dots, i guess those are the eggs but they didnt hatch yet.

    Anyone have experience about this? What am i doing wrong?

  89. @ elnath78

    Sorry I’m not sure about the white dots though I used to breed crickets. Are the white dots found in the soil or in the pot itself?

  90. hello, yes the dots are inside the soil in goups of 3-5 and ive found at least two separate spots. What does cricket eggs looks like? Ive left the pot with adult crickets for 10 days and found females inside more than once, then after 10 days ive isolated it in the same container with a panel leaving the heat and misting it daily i think i should see micro crickets by now, maybe they need something different?

  91. hello,

    thank you for this guide! ill check the soil again, maybe the white dots arent eggs, im neither sure about possible chemicals used in the flower soil, ive to check this too. Do you remember however, how long it takes for a baby cricket to reach at least 1 inch width?

  92. sir, is it reliable to say that it is in premolt stage when there is a baldness in certain areas of the abdomen? Mine is 2″ b.boehmei. What is the typical premolt duration of a boehmei sir? Thank you sir. Hope you will not stop answering queries…

  93. @ Rian

    Not exactly. The bald spot might be because of too much flicking of hair. Now if the bald spot turned black, then it is guaranteed that the tarantula is in the premolt stage. Another sign of premolt is when the tarantula refuse food.

  94. Sir, sir sir. sorry na overwhelmed lang po ako sa mng nabasa ko,.! hehe by the way sir. almost a week napo ako nag research ng mng info. about proper care of “TARANTULAS” kasi po i think na love at first sight po ako sa magnificent creature nato . if you don’t mine sir. can you give me some tips as a beginner on this kind of hobby po and also what should i do or consider first before po ako mag purchase ng new buddy ko..? Thanks po sir. in advance..

  95. @ Will

    Una sa lahat sir, tanungin mo munang mabuti ang sarili mo kung gusto mo talagang mag-alaga ng tarantula. Minsan kasi natutuwa lang tayo pero `pag tumagal, hindi pala talaga natin gusto. Kung dahil “cool” lang, not a good reason.

    Pangalawa, RESEARCH. Madaming nalalaman si Mr. Google tungkol sa mga bagay-bagay. Hanap ka ng species na gusto mo as beginner’s pet. Tignan mo kung pwede na ba ito sa iyo at kung kaya mo ba talagang alagaan. Tandaan mo na may mga ka-akibat na pros at cons ang hobby na ito. Kung kaya mong tanggapin yun, e `di good. Kung hindi naman, iba na lang ang alagaan mo.

    Pangatlo, maniwala ka o hindi, nakakaadik ang pag-aalaga ng tarantula. Kung nakahanda kang gumastos para dito, sige lang. May mga species kasi na nakakatuwa masyado ang halaga. Kung tingin mo less than P100 lang ang isa nito at P300 lang ang budget mo para sa isang “malaki” na species, nagkakamali ka.

    Karamihan ng mga dapat malaman ng isang gustong mag-alaga ng tarantula sir ay naka-post na dito sa pahinang ito. Sana nasagot ko kahit paano yung mga gusto mong malaman.

    Salamat sa pagbasa ng blog ko sir. Kung may tanong ka ulit pipilitin kong sagutin dito. See ya around.

  96. hello,

    i fear my c.fasciatum suddenly died, im not sure about it as im afraid touching it; here is a picture of the c. after is last molt:
    http://dl.dropbox.com/u/80079708/varie/IMG_20120516_125352.jpg

    he is staying in the center of the terrarium, i gave him heat, water, mist and crickets; after molting he placed in the center of the t. but refused food, he capture a cricket but it left alive in the water dish. Im neither sure if it is a he or a she as i was unable to bring a valid molt to be sexed by the shop.

    i bought this on a ‘bug’s meeting’ near my town, it was supposed for reptiles but they also had many inverts. of all kind so i picked it up when it was nearly half the actual size.

    My main concern, except knowing if it is alive or not, is in the case it is dead what killed my c.fasciatum; it doesnt have a ‘dead’ aspect neither im sure of what would be a proper ‘dead aspect’ in spiders.

    please help, thank you!

  97. @ elnath78

    Sorry for the late response.

    1. Tarantulas won’t eat a few days or weeks after molting.
    2. Dead tarantulas are most often in a position called “death curl”. The legs are curled underneath the body. Here is a sample picture.

    http://www.google.com.ph/imgres?q=death+curl+tarantula&um=1&hl=fil&sa=N&biw=930&bih=562&tbm=isch&tbnid=8AizaYhlNob8gM:&imgrefurl=http://www.mikebasictarantula.com/Molting.html&docid=Saqso-1wLWkkEM&imgurl=http://www.mikebasictarantula.com/z_Dead_Tarantula.JPG&w=718&h=600&ei=3i7DT_m4JeSPiAediqmzCg&zoom=1&iact=hc&vpx=83&vpy=131&dur=1478&hovh=205&hovw=246&tx=114&ty=84&sig=117940645592362706213&page=1&tbnh=110&tbnw=132&start=0&ndsp=15&ved=1t:429,r:0,s:0,i:66

    By the way, is the C. fasciatum in your picture inside the tank? What substrate are you using for your terrarium?

  98. hello, yes it is in a 45 exo terra cube with coco fiber and coco bark, ive provided water dish, cave, heat mat at 28° and i think everything else.

    • it is definitely de ad :( in not expert but I be live it had troubles with the last molt. Is it possible it died trapped: inside its old skin? I’m not sure if it was the case, I provided mist during molt period.

  99. @ elnath78 -

    Sorry for the loss. In the photo that you showed me, it’s clear that the tarantula wasn’t trapped in the old skin and had successfully molted. Maybe it was stressed during the post-molt stage.

  100. pwede po ba makabili kaiht isa…. magkan po ba ang price ngisan tarantula.. ung pang beginner lang po. kasi po beginner lang kao… meron po akong isang phlogiellus baeri dito saamin.. gusto ko po sana na makapag alaga ng mas malaki pa dun… bulacan area po ako

  101. good day sir! how do you prepare the coco peat brick substrate for the tarantula? do you immediately put it in the tank? or do you have to wet it first? also, do you have to check it often for mite infestations? cause i heard that some substrates attract mites easily

  102. @ Anonymous -

    Good day sire. I prepare my substrate (coco peat) depending on the tarantula that will use it.

    If the T needs a damp substrate, I’ll soak a coco peat brick in water for about 20 minutes then I’ll squeeze it to get rid of the excess liquid before putting it in the tarantula enclosure.

    If the T needs a dry one, I will literally shred the brick into small particles with my bare hands. Be careful for you might get wounded by the small sharp strands.

    If you are really patient then just soak the coco peat in water and let it dry for days (or weeks). Remember, coco peat absorbs and holds liquid longer than any available substrate around.

    Now about the mites.

    Mites will always be there. You can never get rid of them BUT you can always control their population. ALWAYS remove all the left-over food of your tarantula. “Left-overs plus WET substrate will definitely attract mites”. Also provide your tarantula with a well-ventilated tank. In my own and my friends observation, mites are less seen in enclosures with a lot of air passages.

    Thank you for reading.

  103. This guide contains exactly what I’m looking for. From care to substrate and to ant defense! I’ve been looking for a site like this for days and always end up still with lots of questions in my mind. I don’t know why it doesn’t appear first in the search engine, it only appeared when I typed “Ace hardware coco brick.” Anyway, thank you, sir boyetus! This site helped me and a lot of others as well. Good day.

  104. thank you very much for answering sir! now i know what substrate to use for my precious crae. this is a very informative site! i still have a long way to go before my t grows into a handsome/beautiful creature. s/he is still very young and i’m doing the best i can to give him/her the proper care s/he needs. more power to you and your site! :) :)

  105. Sir, I just bought my Nhandu Chromatus last month, and it just molted yesterday =) I’m just a beginner in this hobby, though I’ve done a lot of research and reading, with your experience, I just want to know if its really necessary to always moisten the walls of my enclosure?? And do I really need to always moisten my substrate??

  106. @ JaeC

    It all depends on your tarantula, sir.

    For slings, a damp substrate will do. Just mist the walls if your T is about to molt. For bigger Ts, just provide an over-flown water dish. Mist the walls if the weather is too hot.

    • Question again sir, how long does it take for my newly molted T to come out of hiding?? Its been 4 days since her molt, and I don’t think she has come out even since her pre-molt, so she hasn’t drank water since. Is this normal?? By the way, my T is about an inch, or more in size before the molt, fyi. =)

  107. @ JaeC

    What kind of “hiding” is that? Clay pot? Bark?

    Anyway, get a flashlight and check your T first. Make sure if it is alive. If it is still alive, then it is normal. It will eventually come out when it is hungry.

    • Clay pot, she’s still alive, coz i notice her changing positions inside the pot, sometimes one of her legs are slightly outside the pot, but the pot is all blocked by its web. When can i start feeding her??

  108. Sir, i’ve learned a lot from your site. mahirap pakainin aking L.klugi it’s just 2cm lats yung pinapakain ko. ano gagawin ko? begginer pa po ako. :)

    • Thanks a lot…she already ate last night, i removed the web covering her clay pot just a while ago, she got pretty mad and gave me a threatening pose… =) i just wanted to see her come out already, she have grown real good…heheh thanks again, this site is very informative and helpful, as you are…

  109. @ Anonymous -

    Lasiodora klugi substrate is half-misted, half dry, para safe. It works for me.
    Kung sling pa lang yang L. klugi mo, pakainin mo ng mas maliit sa prey. Usually, heavy eaters ang L. klugi. Ngayon kung ayaw kumain baka pre-molt. Huwag mo muna bigyan ng pagkain ngayon, after two days try mo ulit pakainin. Kung ayaw pa rin, baka pre-molt nga.

  110. good day sir! i’ve heard about the term power feeding even before i bought my first t. some would say it’s only advisable for slings and juvies. however, im not really sure as to how much i should feed my slings before i can actually say that i am power feeding it? i want it to grow faster but i’m afraid i might feed it too much. is it okay to put 2 lats all at the same time and wait for a few days before feeding it? and also, how long should i wait before feeding it again? i used to feed my t only once a day (with 1 roach), 4 times a week but somehow i feel it’s not enough

  111. @ Merielle

    Good question. Power feeding your tarantula means constantly feeding it so it will molt and grow faster.

    Giving your tarantula 2-4 crickets (or roaches or worms) everyday is power feeding. In my experience, feeding your tarantula 2 lats at the same time is okay. Be sure that the roaches are smaller than your T.

    Personally, I do “power feed” my slings until they grow to decent sizes (2-3″ DLS) or until their genders are determined and guaranteed.

    If you really want your T to grow faster, then sure, power feed it. Give her two to three roaches every day. You’ll know when your T has enough when it stops eating. It all really depends on how much you feed it. But remember, the faster your T grows, the shorter its life span will become.

  112. hi sir! thank you very much for answering my questions! my sling really eats a lot. sometimes it looks as if s/he is going to burst. by the way sir, what do you feed your lats?? i started to have my own colony and i only feed them fresh fruits. do they need more protein-rich food such as cat/dog food? also, do you provide a water dish for them or do you use water gels?

  113. @ Merielle -

    You’re welcome sir. I don’t have a colony of B. lateralis anymore. Back then, I give my roaches chicken feeds, dog food, left-over fruits and vegetables.

    When feeding your roaches with fruits and vegetables, just give them enough chunks that they can consume for a few hours. Uneaten bits with eventually rot after a few days and trust me, you won’t like the smell when you open the bin.

    I also provided my roaches with a wide and shallow water dish. Just put some stones and pebbles in it so the nymphs won’t drown when drinking.

  114. so right now sir, what do you feed your ts? you have an awesome collection by the way! i’ll have my second t on saturday. this hobby is really addicting (and expensive) like what you said in this blog. my next target is a pzb. it seems like a very nice t. sadly, as far as i know, there aren’t much people selling a t like that and if there’s one, it will already be sold out after a few minutes. have you ever been bitten by one of your ts?? by the way sir, im not really a ‘sir’. haha but it’s okay since i’m used to people calling me that. majority of people in the hobby are males so i guess it’s pretty natural :))

  115. Hello Merielle. Like what I’ve written in the first part of this page, the tarantulas shown here are the once that I keep and kept for the last five years. I only have a few left in my rack: Brachypelma smithi, Grammostola rosea RCF , Chromatopelma cyaneopubescens, Tapinauchenius gigas, Pterinochilus murinus, and Lasiodora klugi. All females in decent sizes. I also have a mature male Ceratogyrus darlingi.

    I am too busy doing some other stuff right now so I only want a few to take care off though I buy some slings once in a while.

    Since most of my pets are in decent sizes (5″-6″ DLS, except for the OBT and T. gigas), I only feed them once a week or once every two weeks. I have a small colony of Blaptica dubia so these cute roaches are the staple food of my Ts. I also have a monthly trip to Cartimar – Pasay to buy just enough crickets and superworms to feed my spiders (single serve each).

    Eupalaestrus campestratus or PZB is a great choice for your second Tarantula and you’re right, that species is so hard to find nowadays. I love this species though I don’t have it anymore. I was negotiating to this one seller the other day for his PZB but he pulled out the specimen out of his “for sale list” due to a very fair reason. Anyway, speaking of PZB, it is the only tarantula that bit me. How ironic, right?

  116. hi sir! what does RCF mean? my first t is a rosea and based from what i’ve read, they have different color forms. i’m excited to know what mine’s color will be. i actually prefer dubia roaches since they’re more adorable and they are easy to handle. however, some say that they are quite the diggers so im afraid my little sling will find it difficult to catch them. there’s something about a lateralis roach that creeps me out (hopefully i’ll get used to it). aren’t superworms the ones turning into beetles? i can’t seem to find a pzb but i was offered a good replacement which is a female curly hair. so what happened after your t bit you? :O i’m always wondering since if you get bitten by any insect, your most common reflex would be to shake it off or throw it somewhere. also, what actions or movements would trigger a tarantula to bite?

  117. Hi Merielle. RCF means Red Color Form. Roses have different color forms from the normal gray, to red, to copper etc.

    Blaptica dubia is indeed my favorite roach. Throw one near your tarantula when feeding so that the T would quickly catch it before it starts digging.

    On the other hand, what’s nice about B. lateralis is that those roaches are very easy target for a tarantula because they don’t dig and they move a lot. They are quite smelly but you’ll get “immune” with it eventually. And yes, superworms are beetles larvae.

    Curly hair is also a good choice for your second T. Congrats!

    When I got bitten (on my left hand) by “Ampi”, my PZB, I quickly but (calmly) placed my right hand under her abdomen, to her cephalothorax and slowly moved her away from my left hand. She let go easily. The pain is like you’ve been nipped by a “tiyanak”. Honestly, I didn’t know what triggered her to bite me. Maybe she was threatened or stressed out after I pinched grabbed her because I was rehousing her that time. Luckily, it was just a dry bite though the mark of her fangs was left in my skin. :)

    Are into a member of any community that focuses on Arachnids?

  118. COOOOL!! :O can’t wait for my Crae to grow. at what size does the color become visible?

    is it true that dubia roaches tend to produce slower than b.lateralis? they are really smelly! i think im already used to to the smell though. however, their appearance is quite similar with our native cockroach that’s why i still get a bit nervous when trying to pick them up :|

    thank you! i’m gonna pick her up today. im so excited to take care of her. even though it’s not as colorful and vibrant as the other ts, i still find them quite lovely and adorable because of their curly hair and docile nature.

    haha. such a cute name! i can never imagine myself in that situation. though, im not really scared of getting bitten, i just don’t know what i can do if i really get bitten by a huge t! (i can imagine the huge fangs. but i dont want to imagine the pain!) it’s really cool you were able to stay calm despite of the stingy pain. tiyanak?? you mean the evil babies? OH NO :O did you have some kind of a fever?

    i’m not really a member of any community but i would love to be a part of one. it helps to get information from foreign countries but it’s much easier to communicate and get info from the people in your own country. that’s why i was so happy when i found this blog. you’ve been very helpful sir!

    • The bite didn’t have any “internal” effect on me because it was a dry bite, meaning, there’s no venom released. Getting bitten by a “tiyanak” is like being pinched by your little sister. :)

      The adult coloration of tarantulas usually shows when they are about 2″ DLS (juvenile).

      Blaptica dubia are prolific breeders. You just have to know the tricks. :) So if you don’t mind adding me on Facebook, I’ll tell it to you and I’ll introduce you to a very cool community of tarantula and scorpion keepers in the Philippines.

      • Hi there!

        Could you share the tricks with me as well?
        I prefer to have those Dubias but all I can hear and read was the same with what miss Merielle knew.

        Been referring to this blog ever since I became interested in this hobby. Hope you could share some info with me guys.

        Thanks!

        • @ Reilly Reverie

          Not really “tricks” but anyway…

          1. You have to place your B. dubia bin in a dark and undisturbed corner of your house. Avoid vibrations. Give them enough food and water that will last for two to three weeks. The only time that you will only open the bin is when refilling the food and water dishes.

          2. Be sure to start with a colony. Nymphs (babies) eat the poop of the adults so you definitely need the latter.

          3. I personally prefer to feed the rest of them with chicken feeds and of course, Oranges (and/or other Citrus stuff). It’s magic.

          • Still doesn’t have any colony as of the moment.. :D
            My friend gave me a few Dubia nymphs and found it so hard to feed on my Ts..

            I only have an approximately
            2.25cm C. Fasciatum and a
            1.25 in B. Albo

            They keep on hiding under the peat which obliges me to destroy the T-arranged surrounding.

            Guess I’d stick to B. Lats as of the moment ’til my Ts reach at least 2″-3″

            Thanks for the info sir!

  119. oh i see! i once read a story about a guy who held his tarantula and suddenly, his t started to drool over his hand. must be a cool thing to watch! since my imagination is pretty wild, i kind of imagine the venom to be like a greenish acid-like substance that can melt your skin. but i know it’s far from that >:]

    do you have to maintain a certain temp for them? by the way, do you use a substrate for your roach colony? some say it’s unnecessary ’cause you’ll just have a hard time cleaning your enclosure. unfortunately, it was too late for me. i added a thin layer of coco peat in my lats’ enclosure. now i’m not so sure how i’ll clean it after it gets really dirty :|

    i think i’ve already added you in fb sir. are you mr. boyetus irabon? i’ve tried my luck using your name in this blog. by the way, my name is merielle quemado. nice meeting you sir! and thank you for your kind offer

    • Pretty wild imagination you got there. :)

      The temperature and humidity in the Philippines is just right for most tarantula species so we don’t have to worry about that.

      I don’t use any medium or substrate for my roaches. It’s messy.

      We are already Facebook friends so I’ll ask the admins to add you to the group. It is easier and faster to communicate in social-networking sites nowadays. :)

  120. Galing nakaka inspire mag collect. Pano kaya ako makakuha niyan dito sa UAE? Do you know anyone guys? Thanks in advance 😊

  121. Hey Sir, are you selling T’s and Scorpions???
    You See, I’ve been looking for an emperor scorpion for a while now and unfortunately i can’t find one. If not, are you selling gravid h. longimanus??

  122. Sir, my L. Parahybana has been spending all her time in the enclosure ceiling, is this normal??? Its been 3 days straight…

  123. My (rosy) t (her name is Shelob) has used the substrate (clay/gravel) to hole herself up in her log. There is just a small opening at the top, and I can’t see in there. She hasn’t done this before. She has her heater on the side and her water dish and bark over the substrate. I fear that she’s either stressed to too cold, or maybe hibernating? How long ought she to hibernate? It’s been a week and a half. I fed her a dozen crix about a week before she went underground. She finished them about 2 days before. I hope she’s only molting again, but how can I find out without stressing her further?
    Thanks.

    • If you are really concerned about her, you may slowly remove the log so you can see what she’s up to. I’m not quite sure if tarantulas do hibernate but there are times that they are just really inactive, especially Roses. By the way, feeding her 12 crickets at a time is too much, in my own opinion. Try 6 or just feed her two crickets a day, at most.

  124. sir i really learn alot from this page and get inspired, can i share some of your infos and some pic from here? i hope to inspire others also and hopefully to help expand the hobby more :)

  125. Is it okay to handle our T’s? Kasi yun din po yung rason ko kung bakit ako nag aalga e. kasi astig silang hawak hawakan, okay lang po ba? meron po akong Boehmei, Red rump, Curly hair.

  126. @ Karl Manzano

    Handling “certain” species is okay. The ones that you have “can” be handled. Now the problem is, if handing tarantulas is the main reason why you started keeping them as pets, no offense sir but that is kinda lame.

    Going back to the question, you can definitely handle your pets if you want, just be careful. Thanks for reading.

  127. how often should i feed my p. fasciatum? it’s close to 4 cm and molted last week. i’ve fed it once a day already, i was just wondering what would be the preferred serving size. and also, how frequent does the p fasciatum molt?

  128. @ moonsavre

    P. fasciatum?

    It’s it Poecilotheria fasciata or Cyclosternum fasciatum?

    Anyway, it all depends on you and your tarantula.

    You can basically feed your pet one to three times a day. If you want your tarantula to molt faster, feed it often. The preferred “serving size” of the prey should be the size of your pet’s abdomen. You can also offer you pet with a prey that is slightly larger than her once in a while. Just observe them first because a larger prey might fight back which can stress out the tarantula.

      • at that size, you can’t still distinguish the two species. but if you’ll observe the carapace and the legs carefully, maybe you’ll figure it out.

  129. sir..help..my auratum looks like a smithi..please help me how to know is my ts is a auratum not a smithi.

  130. Sir :) Good day ! Kasisimula ko palang po mag alaga ng T’s .. I have now C.Darlingi and B.Vagans .. Andami ko po talagang nakuhang bagong info about keeping it properly .. Sana maging successful ako dito .. Pareho po talaga tayo ng napanuod ! “home alone” , kaya that time , siguro mga 2003 (8yrs old palang ako nun) nung napanuod ko yun .. Nagka interest na talaga ako mag alaga ng T’s ! So now that I’m 18 , ngayon ko lang toh natupad :D Birthday gift ko na rin sa sarili ko kase nakuha ko yung dalawa last April 27 lang and April 28 ang 18th birthday ko :)
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    Gusto ko pa sana mag gain ng marami pang knowledge about this thing ! And I’m sure isa ka po sa pwede kong maging mentor (kung pwede sana) :))) More power sayo sir ! Thanks dito sa blog mo :) I learned a lot .. Sana makausap pa kita ng personal kase alam ko mas madami akong matututunan ! Thank you ulit sir !
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    I’m Arvince from Bacoor Cavite .. Sana sir magkaron tayo ng communication :) Gusto ko rin kase bumili nung acrylic enclosures and some feeders kung nagbebenta din kayo :) Salamat po ..

    • Hello. I bought mine around Bambang LRT Station. There’s a lot of stores there selling medical equipments. I know there are 12″ forceps there.

  131. I know what you mean with the Impulse buying!! i now have to send someone to go buy my T’s food, or else i end up coming home with a new sling :) just got another T on Sunday because i needed crickets. even though it creates holes in my pockets every now and then i love it, and I love them!!

    • It depends on how often you feed your sling. Adult colors may show when your sling grows around 3″ to 4″ DLS.

  132. Hello, I have a mature female c.fasciatum and are quite new to this T. I have a MM coming soon and would like to get my facts straight about breeding this T. Do you have any helpful advice?
    Female molted August 24th, male molted in July 2013 . Thank you, I really appreciate it.

  133. Hello. Wait for three weeks and then feed your female with a large adult B. dubia. If her partner is really a MM, then it’s sexy time. Good luck, man!

  134. planning to have a G.Rosea(1st),my friends told to get a bigger one,3″ for a beginner..sabi kasi nila,baka mamatay lang daw saken ang sling since inexperienced pa nga..kung mas malake daw,mataas na ang chance na tumagal..pero i want to start with a smaller one..any advice for a beginner?? should i go for a sling or yung medyo malake na??

    nice page you have,very informative..can’t wait to have mine

    • Magsimula ka sa G. rosea na nasa 2″. Baka kasi ma-bore ka sa sling. Kung medyo naiintindihan mo na yung tamang pag-aalaga, pwede ka ng kumuha ng sling.

  135. I have to thank you for the efforts you’ve put in writing this website.

    I really hope to check out the same high-grade content by you
    in the future as well. In fact, your creative writing abilities has encouraged me to get
    my very own blog now ;)

  136. i am a 16 year old girl in louisiana… for christmas i am getting my very first tarantula, a chromatopelma cyaneopubescnens. i use to hate spiders but then i decided that i wanted an exotic pet so i went with tarantulas. now i love them ive already made a list of my next tarantulas im gonna get. this website really helped me with my confusion on how to keep the substrate dry and the humidity at the right level. although, would you mind clearing it up on how i make sure the humidity doesnt go above or below the right level?l?

    • Well, it really depends on where you are located in the globe. Humidity is not really an issue here. Just make sure that you give your GGB a bone dry substrate. Good luck.

  137. Hey what’s up extreme pet handlers! First of all, grabe, I dunno with you guys, but this post here is a masterpiece, helped me fuckin a lot. Just started last week, I got a Auratum fire knee T, and man! I spend hours just staring at this little devil here. I got hooked with this hobby. Anyway, Sir napakaganda ng post na ito, and just by seeing your replies sa lahat ng tao nandito, it’s heart warming na may taong katulad niyo. Keep it up, Godspeed!
    Though, I got a question, Auratum should be placed in a dry substrate, right? How do you get you coco peat brick grinded well if you’re not gonna sink it in water? Weed grinder? :))
    Ako kasi mabasa basa substrate ko, since I thought I had a fire leg or a red knee T, ngayon ko lang naverify na Auratum pala ito, fireknee.. Fuckin confusing but it make me smart knowing it now haha..
    Sir, have you ever heard of a Vulpinus T? Yung kinuhanan ko ng Auratum ko may ganun. Hehe ayaw niya benta sa akin..

    • Thank you.

      I grind cocopeat bricks with my hand. You might end up with cuts and bruises but it’s worth it. If you are lucky though, you might pick up a brick with soft grains that is easier to crush and grind.

      N. vulpinus, like all tarantulas, is a beautiful species. I don’t have one but I will acquire a sling in a not-so distant future.

  138. tanong ko lang sir..kung nkamamatay ba ang venom ng lahat ng tarantula sa pilipinas,meron kasi kaming tarantula dito sa cebu.pero hindi namin malaman kung anung klaseng taratula sya at ska less information lang..

  139. The way to take care of Dubia Roaches

    Cricket tubs are actually noisy not to mention rather smelly by all accounts,
    though the dubia roach breeding is neither of the two.
    These insects tend to be very easy to keep and present a perfect diet for
    your geckos or even bearded dragons. Their soft exoskeleton ensures they simpler to break down while
    providing a great resource of protein. Dubia roachesare very easy to look after, simply
    just keep the few tips and hints above in mind and you will
    definitely quickly have a good size colony in which it is possible to feed your reptiles.

  140. Hi Sir,

    Very nice article, hope you could expand the info about the Chaco Golden Knees. By the way, is there any government permit needed to carry live tarantulas (specifically Slings) on a plane here in the Philippines? I plan to bring some back to our province from Metro Manila. I was asking about it in some pet shops in Cavite, but they are telling me that these are illegal. Hope you can enlighten me.

  141. sir tanung lang pu panu ba malalaman kung stress na ung gagamba ko ? bago lang pu aku e salamat pu ganda ng blog mu . i salute you !

  142. Wow, great blog. Please advise me on the Bahia Scarlett Bird Catcher. Just bought my son one yesterday. Not a baby anymore but also havent reached full size yet. He is really interested in getting comfortable with it and would like to handle it. Have tried nudging her onto his hand but she moves away. He is becoming obsessed with her and I would like to know what is the best way to handle her. Please help?

    Martha

    • Good day Martha. I personally don’t advice or recommend handling tarantulas. But if you really insist it, then grab a pen and try to slowly push the tarantula from its backside. If it doesn’t bite or show any sign of defense, put your palm in front of it, again, push its backside with a pen until it crawls over your palm. Remember, do not make sudden movements that might frighten the spider.

      • Thanks for your reply, its really very cool to be able to correspond with an expert! I have tried explaining that to my son but he developed an obsession with handling her. And may I mention he is Arachnaphobic! a daddy long leg frightens him! My brother has a pet shop with a few really large T’s which Ive handled before but for some reason Im not comfortable with the Scarlet, mabe cos I saw its incredible fangs!? Ive read up all about her species and though the venom isnt fatal it can cause serious headache and nausea, which I explained to my son and he is willing to take that chance so we just gonna keep trying. Ive tried the manouvre youve recommended and she just backs off but calm and poses no stance of resistance or defence. Is there anything else u can tell me about her species that may not be common knowledge given on the websites? Thank u again for having a great website!

  143. Sir, I am a newbie to T’s, and just bought an Albo. Lately, it has been inactive for at least a week, just contented to stay inside its hide, it has refused food for the last four days (it doesnt refuse food even if fed daily with lats), and its abdomen has already darkened. I suspect that it is on its premolt stage now. Is there any advice you can give so that it will have a successful molt (I dampen the substrate daily to sustain the moisture in its container)? How long does it take from the premolt stage until it molts? It has been just 4weeks with me, and I dont have the info of its previous molt, it is roughly 1.75″ dls now. Hope you can help, Thanks…

    • It might be on premolt stage. Just provide it with a source of water. No need to mist the substrate daily.

      • Sir,

        Thanks for the advice. Actually, it molted on the day that I posted the message above. It was a successful one also, I checked up on it and by my estimate, it grew to 2.5″ DLS roughly. I already fed it 5days after the molt, and has been a voracious eater since.

  144. it was this article that made me decide to go for a Pink Zebra Beauty as my 1st tarantula! ^_^ I just got her 2 weeks ago (bought from sir Benjie! shootfinger on sulit).
    Currently she’s on premolt and havent eaten for a week.. i hope she molts soon.

    Thank you for this amazing blogpost ha, very active pa dito kesa sa local forums.. hehe. I hope may mga events and conventions din tayo dito sa pinas about exotic pets..so we can strengthen the hobby scene. very helpful din to educate ppl like me na super noob!

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